Embossing or Debossing

Method of imparting a pattern to the surface of a material. Embossed dies, metal rolls, or paper are used to transfer grain patterns onto coated fabrics through the application of heat and pressure. An embossed pattern is raised against the background, while a debossed pattern is sunken into the surface of the material

Printing

Process where faux leathers are surface printed with patterns. There are three primary ways of achieving this:

• Gravure printing from embossed metal roll
• Transfer printing from embossed paper
• Digital printing from a digital image directly to the material

Leather

Leather is made from the skins of cattle, goats, and pigs through a chemical process. Aniline is the most natural-looking and flexible, and it feels like soft skin but is less resistant to soiling and scratching. Semi-aniline has a light polyurethane surface coating, providing some protection. Protected or pigmented is the most durable and has a heavier pigmented urethane coating. The result is a stiffer, plastic feel that is less pliable than aniline.

There are several types of leather grains and looks:

Full: Leather that has not been sanded or buffed
Corrected: Abrade off imperfections and then emboss with a decorative grain pattern
Split: Low-quality leather is cut and embossed. Low cost and not durable.
Antique: A contrasting top coat is applied to mimic a “worn” look
Nubuck: Lightly abraded on the surface to create a fine, velvet-like surface
Pull-up: Lightens in color when stretched to give a worn effect
Suede: Split leather that has been abraded to create a nap surface

Faux (Synthetic) Leather

A coated fabric manufactured to look and feel like natural leather. Typically constructed of a polymer skin (PVC vinyl, polyurethane, TPE) coated onto a textile backing (polyester, cotton, nylon, rayon)

Woven

A textile fabric created by weaving two or more sets of yarns that are interlaced at right angles to each other.

Knit

Unlike woven fabric, knitted fabric consists entirely of parallel courses of yarn. The courses are joined to each other by interlocking loops, in which a short loop of one course of yarn is wrapped over the bight of another course. Knitted fabric can be constructed in the round (circular knitting) or by going back and forth in rows.

Non-Woven

Nonwoven fabrics are broadly defined as sheet or web structures bonded together by entangling fibers, filaments, or films mechanically, thermally, or chemically. They are flat, porous sheets or fabrics that are made directly from separate fibers or molten plastic or plastic film. Faux Leathers are not considered non-wovens.

Warp

Machine direction

Weft (Fill)

Cross machine direction

Fibers

Natural (derived from animals or plants)

• Cotton
• Linen
• Silk
• Wool, Cashmere, Mohair
• Rayon
• Bamboo
• Hemp

Synthetic (derived from petroleum)

• Acrylic
• Polyester
• Nylon
• Acetate
• Olefin (Polypropylene)
• Spandex (Lycra)

Cleaning Code

Voluntary standards for furniture upholstery cleanability. Used as a guide for spot removal and overall cleaning.

W–use water-based cleaner.
S–use solvent-based cleaner.
WS–use water-based cleaners on water-based stains and solvent-based cleaners on oil-based stains.

Railroaded

The term railroading refers to the layout of the fabric on a piece of furniture and how it is woven at the fabric mill. When examining a railroaded pattern, the filling yarns are oriented in the vertical direction, while the warp yarns are positioned in the horizontal direction.

Put Up

The term describes the packaging method of fabric when it is sold. Most coated fabrics are sold on rolls containing between 30 and 50 yards of fabric.

Repeat

A repeat refers to the length of the pattern before it repeats itself again. Fabrics can be vertical, horizontal, or both repeat or none.

Abrasion Resistance

The measure of a fabric’s ability to withstand abrasive force against its surface. The most common test for upholstery-coated fabrics is the Wyzenbeek wear test. One specimen, approximately 2 x 8 inches in size, is cut with the long dimension parallel to the machine direction and tested for resistance to abrasion against a #10 Cotton Duck fabric or a wire mesh using the Wyzenbeek abrasion wear tester. Test values are shown in thousands of cycles. Test Method: ASTM D 4157. The ACT standard for commercial upholstery is 50,000 cycles. Other tests sometimes used include the Martindale abrasion and Taber abrasion tests.

Adhesion of Coating

The adhesion test determines the force or pull necessary to separate a coating from its fabric backing. The measurement is pounds of resistance per inch. Test Method: ASTM D 751-06. The ACT standard for coated fabrics is at least 3 pounds per inch.

Anti-microbial

The treatment of fabrics to impart resistance to bacterial and fungal growth.

CAL 01350 VOC Emission Test

A stringent test method that measures the amount and type of volatile organic compounds emitted by furniture upholstery fabrics in controlled airspace to simulate a building or classroom environment. It is intended to help mitigate the impact of building materials on indoor air quality and health. GREENGUARD Gold-certified products and those certified with SCS Indoor Advantage and Indoor Advantage Gold comply with California Section 01350 indoor air quality requirements.

Chemical resistance

The test method ASTM D1308-2 measures any detrimental surface effect (discoloration, cracking, etc.) when a variety of chemicals, cleaners, and agents are applied to the surface of the material

Colorfastness to Light (UV and Fade Resistance )

The Colorfastness to Light Test method AATCC 16 A reproduces the damage caused by sunlight. To simulate outdoor weathering, the test exposes materials to alternating UV light and moisture cycles at controlled, elevated temperatures. The tester’s fluorescent lamps simulate short-wave UV radiation, realistically reproducing the physical property damage caused by sunlight. The test can reproduce the damage that occurs over months or years outdoors in a few days or weeks. After exposure, the specimens are examined for any signs of stiffness, tackiness, color change, or other deviations.

Crocking

This test determines the resistance to the transfer of color from one surface to another through rubbing action. The specimen to be tested shall be rubbed with an unstarched cotton cloth using a Crock meter or a similar device. This test is performed with both wet and dry cloth. Performance is typically measured on a 1–5 rating scale, with 5 representing excellent and 1 representing poor crock resistance.

Appropriate Test Method: AATCC 8. The ACT standard for coated fabrics is a minimum of Grade 4.

Elongation

The measurement of the % elongation or stretch of fabric in the machine and cross-machine direction when a constant load force is applied to it.

Flame Resistance

There are many types of flammability tests for coated fabrics, several of which are presented below. Currently, the only ACT standard for fabric upholstery is California Technical Bulletin 117-2013 Section 1.

California Technical Bulletin #117-2013: A semi-composite burn test that supersedes California Bulletin #117. Instead of determining the ease of ignition when the material is subject to an open flame, the new law determines the ease of ignition when a cigarette is left to smolder on the material. If any of the following criteria occur, the material has failed the test:

1. The material continues to smolder after 45 seconds.
2. A char develops more than 1.8″ in any direction from the cigarette.
3. The material transitions to open flaming.

IMO A.652(16)8.2: Test Method: A small flame (equivalent to a match flame) is used as the flaming ignition source. The test object is exposed to the flame for 20 seconds, and fire development after removing the flame is observed. Two parallel tests are conducted using a small flame as the ignition source. Standard to Pass: The sample shall show no sign of the development of smoldering fire or flames more than 120 seconds after the ignition flame has been removed from the object.

U.F.A.C. Class I: Test Method: A sample is placed over a standard foam substrate and exposed to a burning cigarette. Standard to Pass: Class I – Char length less than 1 3/4″; Class II – Char length over 1 3/4″

NFPA 260: Test Method: A sample is placed over a standard foam substrate and exposed to a burning cigarette. Standard to Pass: Class I – Char length less than 1 3/4″; Class II – Char length over 1 3/4″

MVSS 302 – Automobiles, Buses, RV’s: Horizontal Test Method: The edge of a 4″ x 14″ sample is exposed horizontally to a 1 1/2″ flame for 15 seconds. Standard to Pass: Maximum burn rate is 4” per minute or “self-extinguishing” before burning 2″ past the start of the timing zone.

BIFMA x 5.7 – Class I: Test Method: Five samples 6 1/2″ x 3″ are exposed to a 5/8″ flame for 1 second. Standard to Pass: Flame spread is 1 second or longer.

Flex Resistance

A measurement of the ability of faux leather or fabric to withstand numerous cycles of bending and creasing without causing surface defects, cracking, or delamination. The ASTM D 2097 Newark Flex test, which involves 30,000 cycles, is an example.

Hydrolytic Stability

This test aims to determine the resistance of a urethane-coated fabric to hydrolysis when subjected to a combination of an elevated temperature and high humidity. Both tests below are conducted by placing the polyurethane material in a heat and humidity chamber at 158°F and 95% relative humidity for a specified period. A brief description of each test is as follows:

ISO 1419 Method C “Tropical Test”: The polyurethane material is placed in the test chamber and visually examined against a control sample at the end of each one-week period for a predetermined number of weeks, or until the product breaks down and fails. Failure against the control sample would manifest as surface cracking, delamination of the PU film layer from the backing substrate, or significant color and gloss level changes. The ACT standard states the product should withstand at least 5 weeks in the test chamber. Some people erroneously equate the number of weeks in the chamber with the equivalent number of years in the field. No such equivalency exists.

ASTM D 3690: This test involves physical testing after a 15-day period in the test chamber. Before the material is put into the test chamber, it is tested for adhesion in both the warp and fill directions, and the results are documented. After 15 days, the material is removed from the test chamber and reconditioned at a controlled room temperature for 24 hours. It is then tested for adhesion, abrasion, and flex resistance. Adhesion results must maintain at least 75% of the documented values of the material before being placed into the test chamber. It must show no signs of cracking or delaminating after 25,000 Wyzenbeek cycles, with 4 pounds of tension and 3 pounds of compression, using a 100% cotton sateen fabric as the abradant. The ASTM D 2097 Newark Flex test is performed on the material for flex resistance. After 15,000 cycles, there should be no breaks in the PU coating. The criteria of all three tests must be met for the PU material to receive a passing grade.

Moisture Vapor Transmission (Breathability)

Test Method: CFFA19 / ASTM E96. This test evaluates the transfer of water vapor through semipermeable and permeable samples. The higher the number, the more breathable the material is.

Pliability

Measurement of a fabric’s flexibility by determining the amount of force required to bend it.

Puncture Resistance

Measure pounds of force required to puncture through a coated fabric. ASTM D751

Stitch Seam Strength

ASTM D1683. Measures the force required to break a standard seam stitched in a coated fabric

ASTM D4033 Dynamic seam test

Scratch and Scuff Resistance

ASTM D1683 measures the resistance of a material to scratching and scuffing of the surface.

Stain Resistance

CFFA 141. Various water-soluble and non-water-soluble materials are applied to the fabric surface and measured to determine if there is residual staining after they are removed and cleaned. A grayscale of 1-5 is used, where 1 indicates a severe stain and 5 indicates no stain.

Stretch and Set

SAE J885 (CFFA 15). This test measures the extent to which the material will stretch in both directions when a 27-pound weight is applied for five minutes. The test also measures how much the material recovers to its original position. The test is designed to simulate the wrinkle resistance of the material once it is upholstered on a chair.

Tensile

Test Method: ASTM D 5034-09. Breaking Strength – The grab tensile test is the basic test used within the textile industry to determine the pulling force required to rupture fabrics. It provides an index of the ultimate strength of the specimen at the point of failure. In the test, each specimen (4” x 6”) is clamped by one-inch jaws in the center of the width and pulled quickly. The ACT industry standard for coated fabrics is 50 x 50 lb. /inch minimum in warp and weft.

Tear Strength

Test Method ASTM D5587. The trapezoid tear test determines the resistance to further tearing after the material has been cut. The industry standard for coated fabrics is 15 x 15 lb. /inch minimum in both machine and cross-machine directions.

Wyzenbeek Abrasion

This test determines the abrasion resistance of coated fabrics. One specimen, approximately 2 x 8 inches in size, is cut with the long dimension parallel to the machine direction and tested for resistance to abrasion against a #10 Cotton Duck fabric or a wire mesh using the Wyzenbeek abrasion wear tester.

Test values are shown in thousands of cycles. The Appropriate Test Method is ASTM D 4157. The ACT standard for commercial upholstery is 50,000 cycles.

Wrinkle Recovery

A dynamic test in which a heavy weight is applied to the material for one hour, and the time required to recover from any wrinkles or distortion is measured.

Azo Dyes and Pigments

AZO colorants are a class of organic dyes and compounds containing the azo group (-N=N-) as the color-bearing group’s primary chromophore. In traditional polyurethanes, many of the yellow, red, and brown colors fall into this category.

Bioaccumulation

The process in which chemical compounds travel long distances through numerous ecosystems and food chains without breaking down. As a result, the concentration of these chemicals increases as they move up the food chain to humans.

Biodegradable

Capable of decomposing naturally within a relatively short period of time.

Carcinogen

Any of several agents that can cause cancer, including chemicals, radiation, and viruses. Exposure to such agents, singly or in combination, can initiate cancer under conditions not wholly understood.

Conflict Minerals

This includes gold, cassiterite, wolframite, columbite-tantalite, and their respective derivatives, tin, tungsten, and tantalum. Together, these are commonly referred to as 3TG. The U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) requires manufacturers to report whether their products contain conflict minerals necessary to their functionality or production.

Disinfectant

A disinfectant is a substance applied to nonliving objects to destroy microorganisms living on them. Disinfection does not necessarily kill all microorganisms, especially resistant bacterial spores. Disinfectants are less effective than sterilization, which is an extreme physical and/or chemical process that kills all types of life.

Dioxin

A highly unstable, toxic, monocyclic organic compound comprised of carcinogenic hydrocarbons that occur as impurities. Dioxins are man-made materials.

Ecological Footprint

The resulting impacts on the environment are based on our choices, such as the selection of raw materials, energy sources, and transportation methods.

Environmentally Friendly

A general statement is often used to designate a product or process with better health and safety or a reduced ecological footprint compared to other products or processes.

Environmentally Preferable

Products, services, or systems that have a lesser or reduced impact on human health and the environment compared to competing products, services, or systems serving the same purpose.

Formaldehyde

Formaldehyde is a toxic chemical used widely in consumer products and building materials. It is a known carcinogen that negatively impacts indoor air quality (IAQ). The EPA lists it as a pollutant that contributes to indoor air pollution.

HFRs (Halogenated Flame Retardants)

Toxic chemical compounds containing chlorine or bromine bonded to carbon improve fire-resistant properties.

Healthy Building Network

A leading environmental health organization founded in 2000, the Healthy Building Network is based on the belief that healthier indoor environments improve public health. It supports opportunities to change the building materials market by educating on the negative impacts of PVC and recommending cost-effective, healthier alternatives for building and interior furnishing materials.

Indoor Air Quality (IAQ)

The air quality within and around buildings and structures is especially concerning for the health and comfort of building occupants. IAQ can be affected by microbial contaminants (mold, bacteria), gases (including carbon monoxide, radon, and volatile organic compounds (VOCs)), particulates, toxic chemicals, or any mass or energy stressor that can induce adverse health conditions. Indoor air is becoming an increasingly more concerning health hazard than outdoor air.

Leather Tannery Toxins

Because of the tanning process, toxic chemicals are commonly used and released into the environment. Tanneries generate tons of solid waste daily, along with air emissions containing ammonia or hydrogen sulfide. Other toxic substances used in tanneries include mercury, lead, and chromium.

LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design)

The U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) has developed a series of building rating products to establish a standard for what constitutes a “green building” or a “high-performance” building. The various LEED products serve as design guidelines and third-party certifications, aiming to enhance occupant well-being, environmental performance, and economic returns of buildings, thereby establishing innovative practices, standards, and technologies.

Persistent Organic Pollutants (POP’s)

Organic compounds resist environmental degradation through chemical, biological, and photolytic processes. As a result, they have been observed to persist in the environment, capable of long-range transport, bioaccumulate in human and animal tissues, biomagnify in food chains, and potentially have significant impacts on human health and the environment.

Phthalate-Free Vinyl

You may occasionally come across companies marketing “green” vinyl. Usually, they claim to be phthalate-free, making them appear greener by replacing one problematic ingredient. However, phthalate-free PVC is still not a safe plastic due to the presence of other harmful chemicals used during production. They typically use an alternative petroleum-based plasticizer (trimellitate) to soften the PVC, but it is still PVC.

Studies have shown that vinyl (PVC) can have toxic effects throughout its lifecycle. The EPA lists vinyl on its warning list of materials that contribute to poor indoor air quality, among other health and safety concerns.

These “green” vinyls still often contain additives that are toxic and emit hazardous VOCs, such as brominated flame retardants, antimony oxide, heavy metal stabilizers, antimicrobials, and organotin.

Phthalate Plasticizers

Phthalate esters are phthalic acid esters and are mainly used as plasticizers, substances added to plastics to increase their flexibility, transparency, durability, and longevity. They are primarily used to soften polyvinyl chloride. Phthalates are being phased out of many products in the United States and the European Union due to health concerns. (Wikipedia definition) PBDEs (Polybrominated Diphenyl Ethers) – organobromine compounds used as flame retardants in various applications, including textiles, plastics, wire insulation, and automobiles.

PFCs

Perfluorochemicals (PFCs) are frequently employed as surface treatments to improve cleanability and stain resistance. They are toxic, and studies show they impair child development and are suspected carcinogens. They also bioaccumulate and have been found in the blood of polar bears, dolphins, and humans.

C6 Fluorocarbon Chemistry

In a C6-based fluorocarbon (containing carbon-fluorine bonds), stain-resistant chemistry is often used on textiles and coated fabric finishes to impart stain and soiling resistance. The chain length of 6 units has slightly less fluorocarbon. It may break down in the environment a little faster than C8 chemistry, but still not readily. Additionally, a downside of using fewer fluorocarbons is that it may render the textile less stain-resistant than C8 chemistry, and often, more of the chemical is required to achieve the same effect as C8 chemistry. Both C-6 and C-8 fluorocarbons are PFCs, and therefore, both are still toxic and bio-accumulate.

PBDEs (Polybrominated Diphenyl Ethers)

Organobromine compounds are utilized as flame retardants in various applications, including textiles, plastics, wire insulation, and automobiles.

Proposition 65

A law that requires the State of California to publish a list of chemicals identified as causing cancer or reproductive harm and obligates companies to notify consumers.

PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)

Synthetic resin is an organic polymer that treats vinyl chloride monomers with a peroxide. PVC is the main ingredient in vinyl upholstery. Studies have shown vinyl (PVC) can have toxic effects throughout its lifecycle. Vinyl is listed on the EPA’s warning list of materials contributing to poor indoor air quality, among other health and safety concerns.

Hydrochloric acid and other toxic emissions can be created during manufacture or disposal. Vinyl incineration can lead to the formation of dioxin, a known carcinogen and hormone disruptor. 

TPE

Thermoplastic Elastomer. A polymer or blend of polymers that exhibit elastic (stretch and recovery) properties

Vinyl

Mixed with plasticizers, stabilizers, and pigments, PVC resin is formed into flexible articles, such as raincoats, toys, and upholstery fabric. It is often used as a catchall term for all synthetic leather products. This is incorrect. Vinyl is a material made with PVC. Polyurethane and TPE faux leathers are PVC-free and are not vinyl

USGBC (US Green Building Council)

A non-profit organization that promotes sustainability in building design, construction, and operation. USGBC is best known for developing the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) green building rating systems.

Volatile Organic Chemicals (VOCs)

Toxic organic chemicals that have a high vapor pressure at ordinary, room temperature conditions. Their high vapor pressure results from a low boiling point, which causes large numbers of molecules to evaporate or sublimate from the liquid or solid form of the compound and enter the surrounding air.